Sizes: Extra Small to 3X Large
The Cheongsam (Cantonese for Long Dress”) is an early 20th century variant of the Chinese Qipao, a hip-length shirt or tunic. The Cheongsam was first seen on celebrities and socialites as a way of modernizing this traditional garment. In 1929 the Cheongsam was chosen by the Chinese government as one of the National Dresses of China.
Our Cheongsam sewing pattern is simple, slender, and close-fitting. The dress draws the eye immediately to the classic fit, fabric, and finishing details. The construction is basic, with only two main pattern pieces. Cut without shoulder seams, the back and sleeves wrap over the shoulders. The curve of the front piece opens on the right side and fastens with frogs and a side zipper.
The dress fits closely in the bust and hips, while skimming over the waist, and tapers to a slightly curved hemline. Side slits provide ease of movement. The dress is offered full-length and in a contemporary just-below-the-knee length.
Pattern also includes instructions for custom fitting, and for a traditional bias-bound version, as well as instructions for making your own frog closures.
Suggested fabrics: Light to medium-weight silk; lightweight brocade and jacquard weaves; satin; rayon or blends.
Yardage chart (.pdf)
Note: the yardage chart on the paper pattern has incorrect yardages for bias binding for the bound version. See chart linked here (and above) for correct yardage for bias binding.
The PDF pattern has files for copy shop (36” and A0), print at home (A4 and 8.5”x11”), as well separate instructions for bias bound and unbound version, and a lore/authentic detailing file.
LEARN MORE:
Correction: The bias binding yardage on the printed pattern cover is incorrect. Please see this yardage chart for correct yardage for bias for bound verison.
Helpful hints for making the 122 Hong Kong Cheongsam (particularly if you want to make this dress with directional print or napped fabric).
Instructions and additional layouts for a traditional bias-bound version (PDF). This is included in the newest printings and the PDF version of this pattern.
Folkwear samples of the 122 Hong Kong Cheongsam: