Sizes XS-XL
The original suit that this sewing pattern was developed from is known as a Keswa del Mahsour, and was donated to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1948. It is made up of a Jacket, Vest, and Trousers, all lavishly decorated with soutache passementerie trim. Although the original suit is a somber, blue-gray wool, the inside trim on the Jacket sleeve is of a brilliant pink figured silk. Bright yellow, red, and black striped braid was sewn all around the inside edges of the garments, and is used to stiffen the edges without the use of interfacing.
In this pattern, we give instructions for making both the traditional version, complete with sleeve puffs and braid “facings”, and a contemporary version. Both Vests close in the traditional manner, with ball buttons and loops, although in the Traditional Version, the loops are finished with a matching braid.
The fully-lined Jacket does not have closures and hangs open. The Jacket sleeves are also trimmed with a “slash and puff” type placket, which “closes” with brass ball buttons and cording loops.
The Trousers are a harem-style pants, with side pockets, and a front buttoned placket.
A detailed history of the garments, and soutache embroidery instructions, are included in the pattern, as well as the many embroidery designs. This is a big pattern!
Suggested fabrics:
Jacket and Vest: Medium to heavy-weight wool, cotton, linen, or silk. The original suit is made entirely of wool broadcloth.
Trousers: To match jacket, or on their own in light to medium weight fabrics with soft drape such as rayon, silk, or challis. Also, crisp lightweight fabrics such as cotton or linen. The Trousers are not suitable for fabric with nap, pile, or one-way design.
Sizing and Yardage chart (.pdf)
The PDF pattern has instructions, authentic detailing, and files for copy shop (36” and A0), print at home (A4 or 8.5”x11”), and a projector file. Both patterns include all embroidery designs as well.